http://www.bendaggers.com/wp-content/themes/this is fucking crazy
Why do you like to Surf? Is it because it makes you feel great? Is it because you are an adrenaline junky? Surfing is an ocean sport. It is associated with the sea and the power of the sea. There are many thousands of people who “surf” who are not surfers. Surfing is something that gets ingrained in your spirit at a level unlike most other sports. Actually, it is not a sport, I’m not sure what is the right word for it.Whether it is riding epic overhead waves or just paddling and riding a wave that puts you in the ocean. Enjoying and becoming a partner of nature, as the waves propel your surf board. Not gravity, not a motor, but the forces of unbridled and uncontrollable nature.
It’s a crazy feeling shredding on top of water. So fluid and streamline movements, can’t get hurt when you fall, being in touch with nature and the ocean is great. It’s refreshing, awesome and exhilarating, and cruising at the beautiful back line with friends is incredible.
“Not to sound too deep or weird, but I think that the times when you really appreciate surfing are the times you’re really sort of becoming one with nature. Surfing’s as raw of a sport as it gets.”
- Kelly Slater